wordplay: Cameron Dabney

It was a dark night when the original Bruno’s suddenly closed. Pasta lovers were left on the streets and Chianti glasses fell prey to dust bunnies. But in late November, a renaissance was born. Bruno’s Italian Bistro was brought back from the dead and is quickly reestablishing its clout for Italian food in Denver.

The Renaissance men behind the action are two brothers, Jetmir (alias: “Tito”) and Nick. Tito is one part owner of The Lure, in LoDo. And by his side is Nick, a long time New York Chef.  A combination of classy décor, New York quality, and Italian flavors, can be found at the NEW Bruno’s Italian Bistro.

When you crave ethnic dining, you search off the beaten path. I was in search for a rich Italian dining experience. My belly led me south to a very unassuming strip mall.  Toward the north end of the mall, a warm glow radiated onto the grand parking lot. Frosted windows adorned with crystal clear circles beckoned passersby to gaze in on delighted customers.

Open the door and the incredible aroma immediately seduces you. Water trickles over tile on the adjacent wall. Deeply stained wooden chairs encircle tables that are dressed in white. Low lights accent the walls stained the color of sunrise. Two levels divide the dining room with a single step and create secluded dining. I surmise the décor has greatly improved since the late Bruno’s.

The antipasti, pizza, pasta, and rich entrées are all representative of that luscious and sinful Italian cuisine. Eric Roeder heads the “cocina” with Italian gusto, though, thankfully, he is ready to satisfy even the pickiest customer. In fact, Eric willingly complies with past customers’ requests for their old Bruno’s favorites, with many of those dishes added permanently to the menu.

There are a plethora of favorites at Bruno’s Italian Bistro. Try the Roman fried artichokes. These crispy little artichoke petals lay amongst a bed of greens and are accompanied by a lemon caper aioli. Follow this dish with one of the nightly pasta specials.  The penne with chicken sausage and a creamy marinara is my personal favorite. And make sure that you get your spoon in there first, or it will be gone before you know it. Then have fun creating your own pizza with homemade crust and anything from shrimp to fresh basil and roasted garlic.

The specialties are very traditional. You can’t go wrong with Cioppino, a mixture of seafood in a roasted tomato broth, or steak Balsamico with mushroom risotto and balsamic reduction. But I believe the favorite of the table was certainly the Ossobucco. This is a traditional dish from Milan, usually made with braised veal, but with our conscious Colorado society they have created the dish with red wine braised pork shank instead. The dish is served with a crispy polenta and the traditional gremolada. As for the best known specialty, Tiramisu, I personally cannot comment as it was sold out, but this speaks for itself.

It was centuries ago, in a far off land shaped like a Ferragamo boot, that the Renaissance was born.  Artists and engineers came together to build back the empire they once knew. People celebrated the arts, and Italy reestablished itself as a cultured land. Unfortunately, those of us currently experiencing our first, know little of what this synergy truly felt like. Luckily, though, we can be part of the growing family at the New Bruno’s Italian Bistro. But be sure to get there early for some tiramisu!

2223 South Monaco Pkwy

(303) 759.7025

MyBrunos.com