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| Friday, June 29, 2007 |
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Fork It: Wokano
By Image Mag Staff @ 9:56 AM :: 406 Views ::
0 Comments :: Food
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wordplay: Ben Simkins
image: Sean Hartgrove
Over the past year or so I have filled this column with words that I’m really proud of. I’ve filled it with metaphors for the musings and philosophical ramblings on a reason for dining where I’m reviewing. I also have to balance the enticing predicament I want to put you in in a few short paragraphs, with enough investment that you’ll read the rest of my review on-line. Today, though, a restaurant has inspired me to toss my rulebook out the window. And yes, you might call this first paragraph a series of musings, but forgive a guy a little familiarity. The reason for my change today is Wokano.
Nestled away just off of 11th and Ogden, this little gem needs these first few printed paragraphs to wake up a slumbering Denver public. Although Wokano is far from empty most of the time, this cozy little Asian bistro should have a line out the door. The deep red and burnt orange colors of its décor invoke travels throughout the orient. As if to accentuate this fact, once you sink into the huge pillows strewn across the long benched wall, you are served water in what I can only describe as big silver camping canteen cups. This nice touch follows through the whole meal as each dish comes on its own unique plate, chosen based on the associated region it represents. The multicultural flavor doesn’t stop there. With dishes encompassing Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean, Wokano runs the risk of falling short of all unique cuisines by spreading itself too thin, but they handle it all with style and grace. I tried way more than my fair share of their extensive menu, and I hardly even scratched the surface. Oh well, (sigh) I guess I’ll have to go back.
What can I tell you about the dishes I did taste? We started the meal with a Thai tea and a Thai coffee that was a refreshing start, but would also work just as good to take the meal to a sweet end. Japan and China graced our table first with a seriously fresh Miso, and a perfectly balanced Hot and Sour soup that allowed the flavor to warm you before it erupted with the heat. For appetizers, there were crispy coconut shrimp where the perfect sweet crunch met its match with what I can only describe as a mint colada dipping sauce that complemented the dish perfectly. Next was the Ahi Tuna roll. This combination of Thai meets Japanese showed off a hearty portion of buttery, lightly seared Tuna with a generous portion of sliced avocado, all wrapped up in rice paper. A seaweed salad with a delicate sesame oil and soy dressing and spicy Edamame (two separate dishes) rounded out the apps in style.
If you think that choosing off their Tapas menu would be hard, try choosing from their entrée menu. Basically, if you want it, they’ve got it. Their Pad Thai Noodles and Spicy Orange Peel Beef jazzed up familiar bistro dishes with subtle flavors that continued to develop with each mouthful. The Mango Shrimp served with crisp vegetables and a generous portion of sweet mango was inspired with its fresh taste and buttery shrimp. The Kal Bi short ribs were the best I’ve had, with the perfect caramelization of sugars to give them a delicate yet layered flavor that was only accentuated by the soy. But here is where I get really excited. As Denverites, ‘ridians or what ever, our appetite for Thai food has really begun to strengthen. You want it to solidify? Then hit Wokano up for their Thai Coconut Curry with either Shrimp or scallops. I can say hand over heart that I have never tasted a Thai curry this good. Many times with a good curry, your nose runs about halfway through and this is no bad thing, actually I thought it was a yardstick for grading them, but Wokano has shown me the way. As with all their dishes, Wokano manages to reach a certain level of sophisticated elegance you don’t see in a place that does take-out. What I mean by this is the power of spice is never abused unless intended. To use their Thai curry as an example, each bite starts out sweet and refreshing and finishes off with a kiss of blossoming heat even when you scrape the bottom of your bowl.
To fully appreciate what Wokano does, though, you have to see their prices (WokanoAsianBistro.com), which are more on par with your local take-out than a hip up and coming neighborhood where everyone drives a Lexus. There is one last thing that sets Wokano apart from the yup-yup crowd and that is their service. Run by a small group of people who seemingly are always there, you could seriously just box them up at the end of your meal with the rest of your generously portioned meal and take them home. I’ve been there only once (at least twice by the time this goes to print), and by the end of the meal we were chatting openly with both the cooks and Ashley, our huggable server. They seem to generally care so much that the main thing Ashley wanted mentioned in the review was that they don’t have a liquor license, so no one would be disappointed. “I feel bad when people on dates come here and can’t drink…I would need a drink on a date you know.” It’s this kind of care you need and if the absence of a liquor license is stopping you, you’re seriously nuts. You can drink at home or at a bar. At Wokano. you can get a piece of one of Denver’s hidden gems.
WokanoAsianBistro.com
(303) 831.8277
1078 Ogden
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