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| Thursday, February 01, 2007 |
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Fork It: Dizaly
By Image Mag Staff @ 12:00 AM :: 467 Views ::
0 Comments :: Food
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wordplay by Ben Simkins
images by Sean Hartgrove
“Is it French, Italian… what? It sounds Italian… or maybe French.” This is the banter heard often in Dizaly’s first month of business, and why not? In this world of pigeonholing everything into set categories, the world is starting to seem as if it iss just a set of Google search filters set to ensure our precious (ever decreasing) spare time that is spent never taking a chance. Our nature is to try a new restaurant in relative safety, because we are assured what region of cuisine will be served. This trait is something Dizaly has not steered clear of. Oh no, this trait something they have embraced… for the time being. Parked in prestigious Cherry Creek North, Dizaly plays to its crowd of the over forty “old money” with a menu consisting of American standards with an Italian and French flair. But it’s Dizaly’s hidden agenda that has me wishing for its success.
If you take Dizaly for conformist cuisine, you have it backwards, quite literally. Dizaly spelt backwards is Moroccan for “Let’s go!” The warm red walls, wrought iron fixtures, and token Rat Pack soundtrack could easily conjure images of “The Soprano” family eating at the spacious booth in the corner. Just take a look Dizaly’s fully stocked bar, and you will start to see this hot spot’s true colors. The clientele begins to drop in years as the Rat Pack gives way to more contemporary selections, and on some nights a DJ ups the ante. But it’s the food that shows Dizaly’s true morphing power.
“Earn their trust and they’ll follow you anywhere” seems to be the motto at Dizaly. Working from the barebones of American cuisine standards such as steak, fish and pasta, Dizaly churns out some inspired dishes. Their Crab Cake appetizer seemed nearly devoid of filler, allowing the succulent, buttery meat to speak for itself, while still allowing the curried mango chutney yogurt sauce to have a word in. Huge Tiger Shrimp Tempura stacked high in my books as well as high on the plate, atop a delicate raspberry reduction. The Filet Mignon, topped with tomato cognac portabella mushroom sauce, and the Chilean Sea Bass with a sweet Thai chili coulis were simple enough to stay true to familiarity, but were presented with just the right hint of inspiration to leave me wanting more. True to its Tuscan roots, the Penne Con Pollo played the tune the stereo was playing, offering up warmth in spice as well as comfort.
Sticking to form, Dizaly’s dessert menu rolled out old favorites, such as warm chocolate soufflé and crème brulee, that weren’t so much original as they were damn good--tried and true concoctions. I was pleasantly surprised to see an inspired take on the British staple of bread pudding, served with warm Granny Smith apples and fig bread.
To accompany the meal, Dizaly has an impressive (and obviously well thought out) wine list. An impressive array of the wine was available by the half bottle, while some of the finest only by the glass. Once they have your trust, Dizaly hopes that they can play with your palate to your heart’s content by rotating in different cuisines, including Moroccan. It’s this time-sensitive versatility and business-savvy nature that only adds to the quality of the food. Dizaly’s inspired sandbox experiment could make it a house favorite for the old and the young at heart.
2710 E. 3rd Ave. (Cherry Creek)
(303) 321.2324
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