wordplay: Ben Simkins
images: Jonathan Shoup
Cherry Creek North: Denver’s Mecca for those who lunch, shop or just want to be seen. It’s not enough that there’s a hulking great mall overlooking it, no. The grid system of boutiques and chains like Chipotle and Starbucks, with larger ‘décor’ budgets than their Colorado Boulevard counterparts, is the place if Target is a sales pitch at the weekly meeting and not a metropo-store just three short prompts from your Tom-Tom away. So how do you squeeze into the cramped streets, between two digi’ parking meters (no need to touch dirty change here) and make a name for yourself? Answer: know your crowd.
Cherry Creek North is perfect for casual, mid-scale brewpubs, taverns, whiskey bars and cocktail lounges. Places for people to meet either between or after work, or once you have a pile of gift bags to accumulate at your feet. Quick bites, good drink selections and inviting settings are key. This is something one of Cherry Creek North’s reigning hotspots, Brix (which once inhabited Barrons lease), did well. Now it’s Barron’s turn. It’s something they were all too aware of as the married ownership team began their voyage into the restaurant business.
All the fundamentals are there. There’s a huge back patio with simple black metalwork furniture, a small, people-watcher patio out front, a large dining room and a small yet cozy bar to introduce you to Barrons. It’s the bar that we sit down in as we get to experience the five month-old newcomer. The décor is much of what you would expect from this neighborhood. Wine crates are used as stand-out features from the bar skirt to the seating podium. Matchbooks are displayed like butterfly cases, adorning the wall in a throw-back to a more simple time. The style coming from the dark woods and tan, exposed brick walls unfortunately hark back to the era of Flock of Seagulls hairstyles and one rhinestone glove. But as I settled into the weathered looking salvaged church pews that line the long wall of the bar, I realized this is what Cherry Creek likes. Last century’s money likes old century style, or at least a hint of it anyway. Then again, I find myself staring straight at an oversized, round mirror, hovering above the bar that just screams “80s” with its big, frosted “B” in the center, as 80s classic hits flow from the speakers. “We’re a big beer place,” proclaims one of the owners, but as I take a look at the chalkboard drinks menu board and am faced with a selection of two, count them two beers on tap. I’m assured that this will change drastically soon. For now they make up for this with a fair selection of bottles from Hazed and Confused to St. Paul. When it comes to Barrons’ menu, the original tapas style menu has been replaced with a slight revision. All of your bar favorites are here in the “little bites” section, including seared Ahi, crispy calamari, fish tacos stuffed with a fresh Pico that packs a punch, etc. One menu item in the “little bites” section that has me bewildered (but in that good way) is the Crab meat enchilada which comes smothered in a surprisingly mild jalapeno white sauce. The portion is in no way a ‘little bite’ and the creamy dish could easily be a handful any time of day. The red pepper poppers are also a smoky change from the regular jalapeno counterpart.
Barrons is still finding its way in the Cherry Creek North market but with a hotspot location, a focused tailoring to the local crowd and the vigorous tweaking and personal oversight that the owners are taking in the project, could secure its future in an ever changing market. Only time will tell. As for me, the Beasties just made it onto the mix and I have a mouthful of crab meat. The future isn’t exactly on my thoughts and isn’t that a small ‘mission accomplished’ right there?
3000 E. 3rd Ave.
(303) 333.3355