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Monday, December 03, 2007
Fork It: Marni’s
By Image Mag Staff @ 4:42 PM :: 245 Views :: 0 Comments :: Food

wordplay: Cameron Dabney
image: Sean Hartgrove

Steak, seafood and spirits, it’s in the name; but let’s not forget stripes, sauce and SINATRA! Ok Sinatra-heads, you know who you are.  Closet bobbysoxer perhaps? You catch yourself swinging around a light post crooning “Come Fly with Me”? You don the fedora daily? Well don’t blow your top, old-blue-eyes is back! It’s been close to a decade since the tragic day in ‘98. If you must know the story, he can be caught singin’ and swingin’ at Marni’s restaurant every Thursday and Friday night.

Hmm, Sinatra and the mob? I certainly can’t crack that code; though one warm Thursday night I find myself strolling down Lincoln Avenue, when I am suddenly serenaded by a man in a suit and slanted hat. Moments later, I am snuggled at a comfortable table close to a lively bar. And across the room is Frank (otherwise known as Derek Evilisor), crooning out his song in perfect pitch, laughing intimately with the audience and sauntering across the floor like a king. I scream, I swoon, I melt, his blue eyes tantalize me, tear me apart. A lucky lady I am.

STRIPES. I divert my gaze from those angel eyes for a moment and notice that I was reclining on Zebra print, fondling a white coral centerpiece. High ceilings and brightly colored walls protect me. The backdrop: three-dozen circular mirrors that reflect a busy night on Lincoln. The atmosphere is bright and swanky yet still cozy. Up front, the black granite bar is full of lively chatter.  Cheerful bartenders make people feel at home sharing laughter and drinks. Customers in suits sip colorful martinis and hipsters toast with tall frosty mugs of brew. And Mr. Debonair flirts between verses.

Marni’s is the baby of the Lincoln restaurant scene. Nestled in the Beauvallon Towers, Marni’s boasts large portions of surf and turf with an extensive martini and wine list. The martini list itself is nearly endless, 49 concoctions in all. The sommelier has chosen quite an array of bottled treats as well. The wine map takes me on a trip around Europe, offering a smart collection of can’t miss high-end wines from Italy, France and Spain. If you feel like staying close to home, some of my favorites from the California collection are Joseph Phelps, Cakebread and mmmm OPUS! I was also satisfied to see Sonoma Curter by the glass and enjoyed chilled sips of oak and butter with a slight hint of citrus.

SAUCE. Chef Leo Morales wants his guests to feel satisfied. And I certainly must add stuffed. Each entrée is a large cut of meat lavished in a unique sauce. For the appetizer, I indulge in a heaping plate of scallops wrapped in bacon. It is presented in a large scallop shell, which holds enough white wine butter sauce for your bread dipping pleasure. My entrée choice is a tender filet mignon topped with crab and melted mozzarella.  Cooked to a perfect medium rare, this meat is finished with a Madeira wine sauce and a side of cooked vegetables. I finish the experience with a 20 year Taylor Fladagate tawny and, on the side, Italian mascarpone cake-fluffy, yet still rich and delicious.

If I could choose one great word to sum up Marni’s restaurant, I would hand you the mic, tilt your fedora and send you out to center stage with an envelope and a kiss. The spotlight beams down on you. The only sound that fills the air is rustling paper as you slowly open the envelope. There is silence and you read the word out loud. From the suits to the sauce and everything in between, the word for tonight is RICH. You take your bow as the final curtain falls.

925 Lincoln

(303) 918.7300

SlantedHat.com
MarnisTheRestaurant.com

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