wordplay: Cameron Dabney
image: Sean Hartgrove

I certainly am an addict for a French bistro—the bread, wine, and steak frits, comfort food with a romantic and well, Parisian charm. But occasionally, the desire to enjoy the deeper side of French cuisine, known as “haute cuisine” or “high cooking” comes into the picture. You know, those rich morsels of decadent food followed by sips of wine from a dusty bottle. 
Dark wood racks filled with 150 glorious French wines, recess tin ceiling, the subtle glow of chandeliers, white tablecloths draped on intimate tables and reflective stemmed glass for any shade of grape you desire. You have just entered Denver’s newest restaurant for fine French dining, French 250.

After a sip of champagne (and it is French, so, indeed it is champagne!), we perused the chaptered menu and cheese list. The creative elegance was apparent before that first taste. But my intuition was confirmed when the first course was presented, “A Torchon de Foie Gras.” Served at room temperature above brioche, caramelized apples and drizzled with the cognac caramel, this certainly is one succulent bite of heaven’s feast. Oh oui oui, to hear the heart that was put in to this dish—if only I could soak in port for 24 hours! A sip of Pinot Gris completed the experience with a light smoke and sweet that brought me back to earth. I cannot imagine a more perfect representation of the season in a single culinary dish.

The salad chapter at French 250 is abundant, and I am enticed to return later for lunch on the lush patio. “Salad Alice Waters” is decadent yet simple, arugula, cured foie gras shavings and pine nuts, three intense flavors melding together and satisfying me deeply. Apparently, this salad was brought over by (the adorable and charming) Chef Jeremy Thomas from his affair at the Brown palace. The “Salad du Manoir”, is the flirting of sweet and salt (pistachios and bacon) on a display of vibrant greens. Thankfully, the greens are paid due respect with just enough light vinaigrette to enhance the flavors.

A few more courses were presented in perfect composition, tantalizing bouquets, savory warmth and colorful arrangements. One of my favorites was the” Loup de Mer”. This dish is an elegant presentation of sea bass and petite haricort verts and savory sauce that finishes the dish like a passionate French kiss.

I let my honorary side play a bit, and made a challenge to the (22 year-old) wine sommelier, Geoffrey Howell. “Would you please pair this dish with the ideal wine, young sir?”  I was awe struck when he put me in my place, matching the perfect Chablis with the dish and topping it off with the knowledge of the vines, harvest and aging process of the wine. Hmmm, he sure has come along way in one year!

The dinner was amazing, but we couldn’t even think of leaving with out tasting the delicate French desserts. Our choice was the lemon poppy seed soufflé, standing proud as it was lavished with a berry sauce right in front of our eyes. The soufflé is light enough to leave you feeling alive and refreshed after a long meal.

If it is a nice atmosphere and fun drink you desire, let “Denver’s best bartender” make you a cocktail, as you get cozy on one of the two person bar stools. I don’t typically turn my head toward cocktails with much interest, but these fun drinks were creatively crafted using pure fruit juices and Van Gogh Liquors, “a real $12 cocktail” insists Brett Zareck (the creator). My very favorite was the “Myrtille Brillent” a play on the original cur royal with dancing blueberries and a hint of blueberry vodka… excellent for an aperitif or celebratory drink.

To appreciate the whole spectrum of French 250, you must come in for Sunday brunch with bottomless mimosas! Sunday dinner is family-style, a time to dine with flesh and blood and still enjoy the upscale dining experience. The children can indulge in a scrumptious French feast for only fifteen dollars (what a perfect playhouse for etiquette training).

The culinary experience at French 250 is a dance of colors, flavors and compositions. Jeremy Thomas must dream up the dishes in the midst of intense religious experiences. The decor of the dining room lends itself to an intimate dinner with a friend, client or lover. And the petite portions call you to sample the portfolio of artistic creations. But don’t overlook the comfortable and classy bar, extensive wine list, light Sunday atmosphere and lovely alfresco dining. I am already looking forward to my next “Haute Cuisine” experience.

250 Steele (Cherry Creek)

French250.com