wordplay: Ben Simkins
images: Sean Hartgrove

“Don’t play with your food!” It’s one of those universal principals uttered by mothers across the globe.  It seems validly sensible enough, but if I never took a Snickers bar and dropped it in my friend’s deep fat fryer after coating it in a sticky corn dog-esque batter, I would have never discovered the melted, chewy, artery-clogging goodness of that little glistening package. I might never have put potato chips in my sandwich and I damn well wouldn’t have eaten half the crud I’ve cooked since leaving home. Me? I’m just a food lover with a penchant for food combinations only pregnant women would find appealing. What would happen if our chefs heeded their mothers’ words?

It’s a certainty we wouldn’t have Sushi Sasa. The décor doesn’t play however. It’s all business with its clean lines, pale colors and Ikea-style tables, but seriously playing isn’t fun unless you’re going against your surroundings. From his sushi bar at the back of the upper level (a smaller dining room and bar are located downstairs), Chef Wayne Conwell substitutes bat and ball with knife and seafood. He steps up to the plate, at all times fully aware of the buzz encircling this playground ‘o food (Sushi Sasa is one of Denvergrub.com’s top destinations for Sushi). So I challenged Chef Conwell to play as any patron of Sasa can do by ordering the Omakasa. This allows Conwell to call the plays and the customer to catch the curve balls he hits.

First up was yellowtail and salmon sashimi with ponzu. Maybe a safe play to open with but hey, if it ain’t broke… The creaminess of the fish was cut with the palate-cleansing tang of the ponzu, while neither countered the other to the point of dominance. A small addition actually made a severe difference to this dish though. Crisp rice noodles gave the dish a texture I was pleasantly surprised to experience.

Next up came something straight out of left field, a Toro (fatty tuna) Tartar with pine nuts and roasted garlic. Its clean presentation subverted the inner contrast of multiple textures working together to create something extremely unique.  On its own, the Tartar left an after note of clean citrus, but when dipped or ‘fished,’ as our server called it, in the accompanying sauce, a new layer of flavor opened up. I also couldn’t help myself and double dipped with wasabi.

It was then that Chef Conwell served up the highlight of the meal for me, his ‘Diablo Roll’. This take on a spicy tuna roll defined Sasa’s ability to play and play well. Turning this sushi staple on its head, Conwell’s version contained Avocado and was topped with tuna sashimi and sesame seeds. Finishing it off was a kicker of a Jalapeno-infused ponzu.

To show off Sasa’s versatility and dedication towards taking things forward in a progressive sense, a three dish plate made its way to our table. Amongst micro salads and intriguing garnishes lay a portion of wasabi, garlic butter and Kobe beef, seared to perfection. Next to it was Cod marinated in Miso, sake, mere and soy. It was then crusted in a honey/miso sauce. Lastly on the plate sat a black bean-encrusted Sea Bass with balsamic eggplant.

Concluding a serious night of playful food meanderings was a beautifully presented chocolate cake and banana mascarpone slice, each smoothing out the night’s offerings with a creamy, sweet finish.

So next time someone tells you not to play with your food, send them to Sushi Sasa and let’s quiet that one for good.

2401 15th Street

(303) 433.7272
SushiSassaDenver.com