wordplay: Ben Simkins
images: Tait Debaca (Photo Element)

There they sat, resembling marshmallows toasted on a campfire (think movie style, not the burnt husks we mere mortals usually conjure). Jutting from their perfectly seasoned crust, sprung a single, salty shard of prosciutto. Under each of their striking forms, a single crisp nest of potato lying on braised arugula, back dropped by the towering sea of city lights, viewed through Vita’s wall-to-wall glass front face. These seared scallops, parading quite successfully as saltimbocca, put the finishing touch on what had certainly been an eventful night for my senses at the new restaurant, Vita. That was until our server Mo Hodges swung by with dessert!

But I’m getting ahead of myself in my excitement. Yes, these scallops may have very well been the best I have ever tasted, but the rest of the meal that night left more than enough of a lasting impression on me to warrant their own dues.

I have always been fascinated by the power that atmosphere has on your food. It reminds me of a trick my mother pulled on me to keep me amused one summer’s day when I was young. She took various ice creams and changed the color of each with food coloring. Green strawberry ice cream tasted eerily of lime! I’ve found that with restaurants, if the book doesn’t match the cover (both philosophically and aesthetically) then something seems to misalign your enjoyment, or at least the understanding of it. Vita has no worries here, as it is as precisely aligned as a Formula One racecar, as its decor with their stylized approach to Italian-inspired cuisine. Classical design fuses with contemporary flair. Modern artwork lighted by even more modern ideas plays off exposed brick walls. To make me understand just how important this connection is, the appetizers make their way to the table. Like most dishes at Vita, the food plays off a blank yet attractive canvas of ivory plates and bowls, which works perfectly with the mushroom gnocchi. Then again, the food is key here, and a rustic mushroom jus and meaty, roasted mushrooms with the gnocchi doesn’t work bad either. The star for me here in the first course though, was the chef’s daily Antipasto. This selection of some of the best cured meats, fine cheeses and various pickles and salads was an absolutely inspired arrangement of completely independent flavors and fragrances that, put together (suggested by our waiter Mo), worked so well you could believe it was the master plan by the singular producers of each product.

Carrying on the torch of innovative courses, Vita doesn’t forget the salad. Wrapping fresh spinach in a prosciutto “cigar” and serving it with a little package that wouldn’t be out of place served up under a Christmas tree. This package is a hot, gooey, breaded indulgence consisting of fig and Gorgonzola. Add a melon vinaigrette to that and you’ve got yourself a salad you can’t even concoct yourself in line at Soup n’ Salad. What would an Italian restaurant be without pasta? Even here, Vita did it with a twist; twisted pasta consisting of local spicy sausage, Calamari, broccolini and shaved Pecorino cheese. With it, this dish left the clear and distinct feel of rustic Tuscany. Have I mentioned the scallops? Okay, well dessert then. How does lavender and honey, strawberry and balsamic, and marshmallow Gelato sound? It tastes better than it sounds, and it sounds good.

Right now, Vita is still getting its feet as it takes its first steps away from its papa restaurant, Blue River Bistro. At the time of my visit, they were ironing out a new drink menu that would replace the current martini-laced selection, plucked straight from Blue River Bistro. The new drink menu (that will go into effect by the time we go to print) will better represent Vita as a whole, using fresh herbs and the freshest ingredients. I got to sample just a few of these new concoctions, but all of them (Basil Gimlet, Pomegranate Mojito and the Cucumber Cooler) tied perfectly into Vita’s philosophy.

Add to that the ever-important ingredient of good service and a casual yet elegant atmosphere; Vita presents itself near flawlessly. Our waiter Mo pairs a mean wine and does it with a true interest in helping his tables achieve the perfect dining experience. As Vita Manager Daniel Marlowe would put it “eat, drink, live” (the official Vita alma mater), and isn’t that the true definition of Italian food?

1575 Boulder Ste. A

(303) 477.4600

VitaDenver.com